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The Third Wonder of Woodside Avenue
24 May
Little did we know when we first visited Woodside Avenue in the fall of 2015 and the Filipino karaoke joint, Papa’s Kitchen (Papa’s Karaoke in the Kitchen Blues) that we would return again to this now fabled food boulevard two more times within the same year. We had no idea that there were three food wonders—all within a two and a half block radius—on Woodside Avenue in our food group’ mecca: Queens. I should have picked up on the hint in Zio’s email after I announced Renacer Bolivian (A Beef Rebirth at a Bolivian Restaurant in Queens) as our last destination: “That was gonna be my pick,” he wrote. “I saw it just before we were accosted by the karaoke queen. I guess I’ll go with the Bhutanese place.”
“Bhutanese?” I wasn’t paying attention until we filed out of Renacer and he pointed to the restaurant on the corner. “That place,” he said.
And a month later we were seated in Bhutanese Ema Datsi, the restaurant on the corner a few doors down from Renacer Bolivian and across the street from Papa’s Kitchen. The restaurant was deserted and the limited decor featured panoramic posters of villages tucked into Himalayan mountain tops. The menu was separated into three cuisines: Tibetan, Bhutanese, and Indian. Why go to a Bhutanese restaurant and order Indian food? None of us did. In fact, only Mike from Yonkers veered from the intriguing Bhutanese column on the menu when he ordered the Tibetan beef with oyster mushrooms.

A Bhutanese retreat
We were without Eugene this evening meaning, because of his bizarre aversion to fungi, we were without guilt in ordering dishes with a plethora of mushrooms. Not that it would have stopped Mike from Yonkers—or Gerry for that matter—from indulging in the options on the Bhutanese menu. Gerry’s mushroom selection was the specialty of the restaurant, the ema datsi with mushrooms; a stew of vegetables along with the mushrooms and very hot green chilies combined in a mild gooey cheese sauce that was nothing like what you would get on a Philly cheese steak sandwich.

“Dry” pepper chicken
Before ordering our entrees, however, we got started with two appetizers: the “pepper chicken dry,” a fiery plate of stir fried boneless chicken and peppers, and the sooji deep fried pomfret (fish).
“What’s a pomfret?” Zio inquired of our gracious, yet soft spoken to the extreme, waiter. Could it be that he was fresh off a vow of silence stint at a Buddhist monk training camp? No one knew for sure, but the words he mouthed after Zio’s question were inaudible to all of our aged ears. When the pomfret arrived looking like slightly upscale fish sticks we quickly sampled. One taste and all of us agreed that the pomfret tasted suspiciously like tilapia—as if tilapia has any taste at all. Thankfully the fish was served with a house made chili sauce which gave it much needed flavor.

Bhutanese fish sticks
Zio and I choose “dry” items on the menu. He went with the dry pork and I tried the dried beef curry “moapa” style. Zio’s appeared first; slices of dried fatty pork belly in a stew of thinly sliced potatoes. “No these aren’t potatoes,” Zio proclaimed after taking a bite. I sampled one. “It’s a radish, ” I told him

Dried pork
The potato like chunks in my dried beef stew were indeed potatoes but the stew was devoid of the familiar flavor of curry. Not that it mattered; the dish was hearty and fiery enough to sustain a man on a frigid night in the Himalayas. I wondered why the waiter deposited toothpicks on our table along with our platters until I began picking pieces of the dried beef out of my teeth.

Dry beef stew “moapa” style
Lastly, small bowls of from what I thought the waiter whispered was “seaweed soup” were given to all of us. I took a sip. I had heard correctly. Zio, however, heard nothing.
“I’m not sure if I’m supposed to clean my hands with what is in this bowl or eat it?”
Where do they get seaweed in Bhutan, I wondered aloud. No one answered. No one cared. Sometimes we need to put our heads down and just eat.
After cleaning our platters, our check arrived. We thought we might be helpless without Eugene present to tally up the damage. But there was no damage. We were well below our $20 per person allotment. And for all the very satisfying food we ate, that was a wonder in itself.
Bhutanese Ema Datsi
67-21 Woodside Ave
Queens
The Wong Wonton Mott Street Revolt
25 Jan
The winter of El Nino was finally becoming harsh and noodles and soup seemed like a good idea to both Zio and I. I had told him to meet me at a place called 102 Noodles Town, but before I got to the restaurant, I received a text from him. “I am at 102 Mott Street,” Zio wrote. “There is nothing about noodles or the town of noodles.”
Zio was waiting out front when I arrived. The restaurant at 102 Mott Street was now called Wong Kee, but in the window was a declaration from Zagat’s referring to “Big Wing Wong,” and describing the restaurant as “traditional” with “BBQ meats and soups.” Despite the confusion over the restaurant’s name, it had what we wanted and we wasted no more time out in the cold.
We passed an open kitchen where soups were bubbling and where red-glazed ducks, roast pork and ribs hung. The menu was traditional, as Zagat proclaimed featuring congees, an assortment of soups, and barbecue meats over rice. We were about to order when a stranger who had just finished dining approached our table.
“How did you hear about this place?” the man asked us.
We looked at each other. We weren’t sure how to answer. Zio mumbled something.
“It’s my job to know about these places,” I finally said.
“Did you know this used to be “Big Wing Wong,” he informed us.
“I saw that on the door.”
“We thought it was called ‘102 Noodles Town’,” Zio said.
“What?” The man was stumped.
“102 Noodles Town.” Zio repeated.
“I don’t know about that, but I do know that some of the people who work here worked at Big Wong before this place became Big Wing Wong,” he said
“Well we definitely know Big Wong,” I said, referring to another very good soup and noodle place also on Mott Street that both of us had frequented numerous times.
“Yeah, so a group of them left Big Wong,” the man said. “There was a revolt,”
“A revolt?” Zio looked puzzled. “What kind of revolt?”
“I don’t know.” The man now had a sly smile. “They didn’t like working there. It was a communist revolt.”
Neither of us really knew how to respond to that.
“Yeah.” The man stood there. “I used to come here all the time, but not since they changed the name.”
“From 102 Noodles Town to Wong Kee?” I asked.
“You mean Big Wing Wong,” he said.
“Whatever.”

Where the revolt took place
“So is the food still good?” Zio asked
The man shrugged. “I don’t know. The duck was a little tough. It didn’t fall off the bone like it used to.”
“Maybe it was just one tough duck,” I said trying to inject some humor into the bizarre interaction.
The man finally departed into the Mott Street chill and Zio and I were left to ponder the information we just received.
“I don’t care about the duck,” Zio said. “I want soup.”
“That’s why we are here,” I said.
“Ready now?” Our waitress asked as she approached our table, her pen and pad out.
“We thought this was 102 Noodles Town,” I said before we could order, hoping to clear up the confusion.
“New owner,” she blurted.
“What?” Either Zio’s hearing was going or he didn’t understand.
“New owner,” she barked again. “Ready now?”
I ordered the mixed shrimp, pork and vegetables dumplings with soup. Zio pointed to the beef tripe medley noodle soup on the menu.
“You want that?” Our waitress questioned Zio’s choice.
“Yes I want that,” he huffed indignantly .
She was ready to leave, but we called her back. We came all the way to Chinatown on a cold night. We couldn’t just have soup. I added a roast pork omelet over rice.
“You know you are ordering egg foo young, don’t you?” Zio told me.
“Yeah, but it says ‘no gravy’ here,” I said pointing to the menu. “Maybe I’ll get lucky and they’ll make a mistake.” The corn starch-thickened brown sludge usually poured over egg foo young was a guilty pleasure of mine.
Keeping our ordering very old school, Zio ordered the chop suey with pork, squid, and shrimp.

Squid chop suey
Before deliberating further on Chinatown restaurant revolts, our soups came. The wontons in my flavorful chicken-based broth were fresh and stuffed with a combination of pork and pieces of shrimp. It was exactly what I wanted.

Wonton soup
The roast pork omelet came before I could finish the soup; a large fried disc of egg and pork over rice, but, to my disappointment, with no gravy.

No gravy
Zio was still gnawing through the tripe in his soup when the chop suey, an assortment of meats, fish and vegetables in an oyster sauce was placed in front of him. Soon he gave up on the tripe and concentrated his efforts on the chop suey. Between the two of us there was nothing left.

The beef tripe medley
Fortified now, we put on our winter gear; the soup and hearty hot dishes like another layer. Once outside I looked at the sign again. “Do you think when they called it 102 Noodles Town they were borrowing from Great New York Noodletown?” I wondered referring to another excellent soup and noodles joint.
“Who knows?” Zio said with a shrug. “Maybe there was a revolt there too.”
Wong Kee
102 Mott St
Chinatown
Neckbones’ Calcutta Christmas Carol
23 Dec
Gerry, when he announced his pick, called the location we were to visit the “childhood home of our fearless leader.” The fearless leader he was referring to was me and I wasn’t so fearless in anticipation of driving out of the city at rush hour during the Christmas gridlock alert days but it was something I expected knowing Gerry’s sadistic tendencies. So when I knew I would be traveling to Ardsley, normally less than a half hour drive from my city home, and knowing there would be holiday traffic, I gave myself about an hour and a half to get there. I had the pleasure of Zio’s company for the ride out. Our destination was a joint called Calcutta Wrap & Roll, in the small town plaza surrounded on either side by the Saw Mill River Parkway and the Major Deegan Expressway.
Ardsley was my home in the middle years of the last century. In the Leave it to Beaver days of my youth, like the television in our living room, Ardsley was a black and white town, minus the black—or any other color. I explained all this to the Bronx born Zio as we arrived about a half hour early narrowly escaping the hellish transverses out of Manhattan.

That front entrance looks very familiar.
Since we had extra time, I took Zio past the modest suburban home where I spent my early school years. I noticed there was a Santa Claus with eight tiny reindeer on the roof of the house. All those years anxiously tossing and turning on Christmas Eve on the top bunk of the bunk bed in the room I shared with one of my brothers hoping to hear Santa on our roof, I never did. On this night when I planned to feast on Indian food there he was. And I no longer cared.
I showed Zio the route I would take with neighborhood friends from my house to the very small main street where we would plunder bubble gum dispensers not for money, but for the tasteless balls of bubble gum. I pointed out the small store that was called Big Top where I bought my baseball cards, comic books and my first 45 records, including the one below. Big Top was now a bagel shop.
Across the street from the bagel shop was a Mexican restaurant, a Thai place and Calcutta Wrap & Roll. Even the mention of such exotic cuisines when I lived in this town would have been incomprehensible. Exotic to me when Ardsley was my home was a soft serve chocolate ice cream cone at that local Carvel that was topped with chocolate sauce that hardened over the ice cream called a “brown bonnet.” The Carvel was still there, though now sharing the space with a Subway sandwich shop. It looked nothing like the grand ice cream parlor I remembered.
Hunger thankfully ended my tour down memory lane and soon our group was seated in Calcutta Wrap & Roll deciding whether to go for the mysore masala dosa “hot!” exclaimed the menu, or the Calcutta lamb roll “house special” of which there were many on the menu. We decided on the latter, much to Zio’s disappointment. For reasons never explained, he had his heart set on that baseball bat-like dosa.
Along with the lamb roll, we ordered the Calcutta vegetable chop—also one of the house specials. The vegetable chop, a sphere of fried potato reminiscent to a extra large tater tot but with Indian accents.

Vegetable Chop
For my entrée, I chose “Dr. B’s chicken chutpata “hot!” the menu exclaimed but without a mention of who “Dr. B” might be. Eugene stuck to the traditional, though not for Ardsley circa 1964, chicken biryani while Zio wanted his Indian rice with goat meat. Mike from Yonkers, who had to eat at an unusually, for him, rapid pace due to an appointment he needed to get to, chose the malai kofta, mentioned as “Piyali’s Choice,” again without a hint as to who Piyali was. This offering was garnered a “chef’s special” as opposed to the more mundane house special. Gerry rounded out the ordering by picking the Goan fish curry, which though “hot” was nobody’s special.
“Tilapia or salmon,” the waiter asked, giving Gerry a choice.
Gerry chose the tilapia and soon our food, dished out in plastic take out containers and served on cafeteria trays was in front of us.

Goat Biryani
Though the two starters, the lamb roll and the vegetable chop were pedestrian, the entrees were a cut above standard Indian take-out. Coated in a blood red, “special hot sauce,” Dr. B’s chicken chatpata was the Punjabi equivalent of Buffalo chicken wings. All I needed was a beer and either a blue cheese sauce or at least an order or raita to offset the hot sauce. I had neither.

Dr. B’s Chicken Chatpata
Gerry’s fish curry was lip numbing and even the biryanis had a bite to them, while “Piyali’s choice,” the malai kofta; paneer with vegetable dumplings in a yellowish-cream sauce would have put out any fire it was that mild.

Piyali’s Choice
For what was very good take-out Indian food, the prices were not very Calcutta-like. But we were in Westchester—Ardsley to be exact and real estate doesn’t come cheap in these parts no matter the ethnicity. As we headed back to the city there remained a tingle on my lips from the heat of the countless chilies consumed and that was a good thing. My only regret was that we didn’t stop at Carvel for a brown bonnet to help put out the fire…and for old times sake.

The brown bonnet
Luigi’s Prima Pasta & Pizza
12 Mar(A menu inspired by the music of Louis Prima)
Welcome to Luigi’s Prima Pizza & Pasta where we serve the best in Italian-American cuisine. Come to our lively, festive restaurant where our beautiful hostess Felicia will show you to your table. Felicia, from Calabria, speaks no English, so Felicia…no capicia. But if you have any questions on the menu, Angelina, the waitress (at the pitzzeria) will be glad to answer them.
All dishes are prepared home-style and created from recipes evolved from Chef Luigi’s grandparents from the “old country.”
Here is a sample of Luigi’s award-winning menu.
Antipasto
Minestron’
Pasta fazool
Zooma Zooma Baccala (served room temperature in a salad with hot cherry peppers)
Ol’ Fashion Salami
Brooklyn Pastrami
Cucuzza*
*”Cucuzza grows in Italy, they love it on the farm. Something like zucchini flavored with Italian charm”
Pizza
Tomatoes and fresh Mozzarella*
Sausage
Meatball
Fresh Garlic
Anchovies
Mushrooms
*Extra mozzarella, the way my cucuzza likes it, add $1.
Pasta
Lasagne
Ravioli (Luigi’s specialty)*
*Comes with one meatball. Extras are $2 each.
Primo
Cutlets Parmigiana (chicken, veal or pork)
Steak Pizzaiola
Chicken Cacciatore
Virginia Ham (on the bone)
Sweets
Bananas (unless we run out and then, yes, we have no bananas)
Banana splits*
Spumoni
*A glass of ice water free with every banana split order.
Enjoy Yourself at Luigi’s!
Louis Prima’s Food Discography
Angelina
Banana Split for my Baby
Closest to the Bone
Enjoy Yourself
I’ll Be Glad When You’re Dead (You Rascal, You)
My Cucuzza
Pennies From Heaven
Please Don’t Squeeza the Bananas
Yes, We Have No Bananas
Zooma Zooma